Korean Skincare and the Power of Skintok

Written By Elizabeth Sapara-Grant


It has been my perspective, both through what I have seen on TikTok and my own personal experience, that Korean skincare is years ahead that of America. Many other consumers had the same reaction during the Covid pandemic, when Korean skincare products and ingredients — such as snail mucin — became major fads in the American market. And like me, many consumers were shocked to hear that these ingredients were not any kind of new discovery or breakthrough in skincare technology: for example, snail mucin products had been popular in Korea since at least the early 2010s. With a hyper competitive market, and with smaller corporations competing for the attention of its local base, Asian skincare has been on the forefront of innovation in the field and has now made its mark across the globe. 

But what are the Korean skincare gurus really doing different — besides being less reluctant to put snail slime on their faces? Is Korean skincare more than just a TikTok fad, and if so, what does it say about the future of the skincare industry? 

 It is commonly thought that the main difference between American and Korean skincare is that Korean skincare uses natural, nonabrasive ingredients such as green tea, aloe vera, and honey, while American skin care uses far more aggressive chemicals, like salicylic acid. This perspective is shared by an article on Refinery 29, titled, fittingly, “Is Korean Skincare Really Superior? An Investigation.” There is some truth to this. For example, American brands have lately focused on breakthroughs in “skincare technology” —  products emphasize the science behind their formulas, all claiming to be the next big thing. 

However, we could easily point out that Korean skincare often contains just as many “artificial” ingredients, that Korean skincare culture has normalized plastic surgery far more than in America, and that with its own skincare fads such as snail mucin treatments, is always claiming to have the “next big thing” just like American skincare brands. The entire industry thrives on “artificial” ingredients, promised one-size-fits-all solutions, and clever marketing. However, one thing that stands out through all the noise about what’s “natural” and what’s “artificial” in skincare — and the 30 second videos that everyone now gets their information from — is the viral Korean “10 step routine.” 

One of the most influential trends coming from Korean skincare is the “10 step routine.”  The 10 step skincare routine is a multi-step process that focuses consistently using nourishing products to provide your skin with nutrients to maintain healthy and vibrant skin. The 10 step process heavily focuses on the prevention of underlying problems as opposed to treating existing problems, including applying an oil based cleanser, a water based cleanser, following the “3 second rule” (i.e., not drying your face between cleansing and the rest of the steps), applying a toner, essence, serum, moisturizer, and sunscreen.

With its emphasis on natural ingredients and drawn-out skincare routines, it is only natural that skincare enthusiasts like myself would be huge fans of Korean products — but surely not every reader gets excited as I do about a daily 10 step beauty routine. Americans are used to hearing that their skin-type is what is most important when choosing a skincare routine: a routine is chosen by determining whether your skin is dry or oily, for example. More distressing skin problems — like blackheads or acne — are treated with an extremely aggressive approach, such as exfoliants that get deep under your skin and can be quite irritating. It seems that the message of Korean skincare is this: there are no quick and easy solutions to healthy skin. Unless you’re willing to undergo pricey plastic surgeries, the path to better skin will require time and patience. 

Skincare involves taking care of your body. Like everything else related to health, being proactive is more effective than treating symptoms. You might think in today’s culture, as our attention spans become shorter than ever, that we might be more vulnerable to marketing that promises quick, one-size-fits-all solutions. What we may learn from the 10 step routine is that it doesn’t have to be this way. The skincare industry can promote a more holistic approach to skin health, and can thrive off products that keep skin healthy rather than fix unhealthy skin. 

We are no longer just desperate customers in the beauty aisle, trying to fix their dry skin. At least for many girls my age, we learn about new trends by consuming content made by other skincare enthusiasts. And though much of this content will be sponsored, a significant amount of it will be genuine testimonies from real people trying different products and routines. The rise of TikTok has given us more than shorter attention spans. TikTok gives consumers a massive extra perspective, often working against the brands that promise to fix all your problems with one product. In this way, TikTok will continue to shake up the beauty industry. If the 10 step routine is any indication, then TikTok might even move it toward healthier skin. 





Elizabeth Sapara-Grant